INTEGRAF--Simple Holography

Simple Holography

The Easiest Way to Make Holograms

4. REFLECTION HOLOGRAM BY “CONTACT COPY” METHOD

The “white light reflection hologram” is the simplest to make. We advocate the “contact copy” method, whereby you lean the holographic plate (holoplate) directly against the object during exposure. As long as there is no relative movement between the object and the plate, no vibration isolation is needed.

4.1 Supplies

You will need the diode laser discussed above, a supply of Slavich PFG-03M 2.5 x 2.5 inch plates (63mm x 63mm), and a JD-4 chemical processing kit (or PFG-01 plates with JD-2). All of these items can be obtained separately or together in a Integraf hologram kit.

Though slightly trickier, one can also use PFG-01 holographic film sheets sandwiched and clipped between two glass plates instead of using holographic plates. Develop with JD-2. For the instructions below, substitute the properly sandwiched film sheet for the holographic glass plates. See our article on how to use holographic film sheets for important details.

4.2 Preparing the object

The choice and preparation of the object is crucial: (1) it should be made of a solid material such as a quarter or dime (no furry or fabrics); (2) it must appear bright when illuminated with the red laser light; and (3) it must not move or deform.

If it's your first time making a hologram, try to avoid choosing objects that are fabric or fury (e.g. teddy bears) because these objects deform easily. Also avoid large plastic objects as they tend to expand and contract with the slightest change in temperature (even from the heat of your fingers!). For best results, try metal or porcelain objects that can be easily illuminated with laser light and are no larger than the size of the holoplate, such as coins.

If there is any doubt about potential movement, you could glue the object to a stable wood or metal platform where the hologram will be made. The picture below shows a more elaborate, but optional, way of mounting the object. The object is glued to a small platform and held from behind by a metal block to prevent the object from leaning back. The platform has three round-headed screws from the bottom for three-point support. The upper parts of two of the screws can be used as stops when the holographic plate is placed in front of the object for exposure, preventing any slippage.

Holography Tip

If your object or holographic film plate moves even 1/1000th of an inch during exposure, your hologram will not likely turn out. So avoid talking, music, noise, walking around, air currents, creaky floors, soft objects, temperature changes to the object . . . . What other things can you think of that might cause tiny movements or vibration?

Another way to dampen movement or vibration is by placing the object on a computer mousepad, or even better, a tray of sand, salt, sugar (or even kitty litter).

Prepare the chemical processing solutions and layout the processing trays as directed by the instructions that accompany the JD-4 (or JD-2) kits. Although our chemicals solutions are termed non-volatile, chemicals evaporate over time and may cause nose and throat irritations. Use the chemicals in a ventilated area.

It is not necessary to have a completely dark room. However, the room should be sufficiently dark so that one cannot read in it. Use a standard night-light if necessary so that you can move about safely. Block any direct light from reaching the holography system.

4.3. Making a reflection hologram

Carefully follow these steps to align and expose the hologram to the laser:

Adjust the laser in its holder so that the beam spreads out horizontally.

Place the object at a distance of 35 to 40 cm from the laser.

Place a white card behind the object and adjust the laser while looking at the shadow on the card. Adjust the position of the laser until the object is optimally illuminated. Then remove the white card.

Place an opaque cardboard near the laser to block the light from reaching the object. This will serve like the shutter of a camera.

Remove a holographic plate from its container (in the darkest part of the room), and close the container.

Lean the holographic plate on the object, making certain it will not slip or move; the emulsion (sticky side) should touch the object.

Allow 10 seconds for the object to settle, and tell everyone in the room to hold still and silent.

Now, lift the “shutter” slightly off the table while still blocking the laser light, and wait 2 seconds for the vibration to subside.

Then, lift the shutter slowly (to avoid creating an air current or draft) all the way up to expose the holographic plate and object for 10 seconds (5 seconds minimum, longer is OK up to 40 seconds). Then, block the light slowly, again.

Process the exposed holographic plate according to instructions that accompany the JD-4 (or JD-2 kit if you are using PFG-01 instead of PFG-03M).

Optionally, place your holographic plate in a solution of Photoflo for 20 to 30 seconds. Photoflo is a wetting agent that helps holograms turn out cleaner and clearer. It reduces streaks and promotes more uniform and quicker drying. While PhotoFlo is not required to make a hologram, it does help them look better.

After the hologram is thoroughly dried, it can be viewed with a point source of incandescent light such as that from a projector, flashlight, or the sun. You cannot use diffused light sources such as frosted bulbs and florescent lamps. For best results, spray paint the emulsion (sticky) side with a diffuse black paint. This protects the emulsion and provides a dark background to enhance the visibility of the image.

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